Most of what makes Split worth the trip costs nothing, because the palace streets and the waterfront are open to everyone. Pay only for the few rooms and towers that you actually want to enter.
1Diocletian's Palace
Photo: Aleksei Pribõlovski / Pexels, Pexels License
A fortified imperial residence built between 295 and 305 AD, and one of the best-preserved late Roman buildings you can walk through. The old town grew inside and around it, so today the walls hold shops, flats and bars.
Time
1 h to 1 h 30 min, longer if you stop for a drink
Setting
Outdoor
Best time
Early morning, before the groups
Getting there
On foot from the Riva or through the Silver Gate on the east side
Tip: The lanes are easy to circle for an hour without seeing the same corner twice. Pick a landmark, the bell tower works, and use it to steer back to the centre.
The streets are free. The Substructures charge admission and open daily from 9 am to 5 pm, last entry 30 minutes before closing.
The central court of the palace, framed by columns and arches, with a black granite sphinx at one side. The steps are where Split sits down, with a coffee or a glass in hand.
Time
20 to 30 min
Setting
Outdoor
Best time
Late afternoon, when the stone turns gold
Getting there
Straight in from the Brass Gate on the Riva side
Tip: Look for the Vestibule next to it: its terrace is one of the better places for a view over the old centre.
Photo: Aleksei Pribõlovski / Pexels, Pexels License
The cathedral fills the emperor's former mausoleum, which makes it among the oldest cathedral buildings still in use. The Romanesque bell tower beside it is the symbol of the skyline.
Time
45 min to 1 h 30 min, more with a queue for the tower
Setting
Both
Best time
Right at opening, before the tower fills up
Getting there
On the Peristyle itself
Tip: Buy tickets at the official ticket office and ask which spaces yours covers, since the tower, crypt and treasury are separate. The stairs are steep and open to the air, so leave this for another day if heights are not your thing.
The palm-lined waterfront promenade along the southern wall of the palace. It is where locals do their evening stroll, and the café terraces face the water, not the traffic.
Time
30 min to 1 h, plus coffee
Setting
Outdoor
Best time
Sunset, then dinner nearby
Getting there
Directly outside the Brass Gate, along the harbour
Tip: Skip the first row of tables if you only want a coffee. The cheaper places are one street back, and the view is nearly the same.
