Dublin travel guide
Dublin is small enough to walk, wet enough to need a plan B, and has a coast on the same train line as the centre. This page sets the order of things; the others hold the detail.
Dublin in a nutshell
The centre sits on both banks of the Liffey, and most of what visitors come for is within a walk of Trinity College: the Book of Kells, the National Gallery, the National Museum of Archaeology, the pubs. The two things that are not on foot are Kilmainham Gaol, 3.5 km out, and Phoenix Park. The sea is the other surprise. The DART runs from Connolly station to Howth, Malahide and Bray in about half an hour, so a harbour lunch or a cliff walk fits into any itinerary. Book the Gaol and the Book of Kells before you fly; the rest you can decide on the day, which in Dublin means after looking out of the window.
How many days
- Two days: Trinity and the Book of Kells, an evening on the Liffey, then Kilmainham Gaol with St Patrick's Cathedral.
- Three days: the same, plus a full day on the coast. Dún Laoghaire is the easiest pick; Malahide Castle is the gentler one.
- Four days: add Phoenix Park and the free museums, and keep one day loose for the weather. Glendalough needs the whole of it.
A three-day plan
Day 1: Trinity and the river
Take the first Book of Kells slot you can get, then go on to the National Gallery or the Archaeology museum; both are free. Cross the Ha'penny Bridge at dusk, when the quays light up, and have dinner away from the Temple Bar crowds.
Day 2: Kilmainham and the cathedral
Kilmainham Gaol is a guided tour with a fixed time, so plan the day around it. After the tour, go back to the centre for St Patrick's Cathedral, which closes earlier on weekdays than you would like. Finish in Phoenix Park if the sky has cleared, or in a pub if it has not.
Day 3: the coast
Catch the DART from Connolly to Dún Laoghaire and walk out along the harbour pier, with fish and chips on the seafront afterwards. If the wind is up, Malahide is a DART ride the other way, with a castle and gardens instead of an exposed pier.
When it rains
It will. Dublin Airport records rain on about 200 days a year, and plenty of those are showers of twenty minutes, so the trick is to keep two indoor plans in your pocket and to move between them rather than wait.
- Morning: the Book of Kells and the Old Library, booked for the first slot.
- Afternoon: the National Gallery or the National Museum of Archaeology, both free.
- Evening: the National Gallery stays open until 8.30 pm on Thursdays.
- Any time: Kilmainham Gaol runs in all weathers, but its old halls are cold, so bring a layer.
Where to stay
- Around Trinity College
- The short walks start here: the Book of Kells, the National Gallery, the Archaeology museum and the Liffey are all close. It costs the most and pays back in time saved.
- Near Connolly station
- The DART to Howth, Malahide and Bray leaves from here, and so do the intercity trains north. A practical base for a trip heavy on day trips.
- In or beside Temple Bar
- Lively, loud and central. Fine for a short stay if you sleep through anything; ask for a room at the back.
- On the coast
- Howth, Malahide and Bray are all about half an hour from the centre by DART. You trade late nights in town for a sea walk before breakfast.