Zagreb travel guide: what to see, where to stay, how long to plan
Zagreb is a city to walk. Two hills of old streets, a flat grid of squares below them, and a tram that fills every gap in between.
Zagreb in short
The city has two halves that began as rivals. On the hill, Gradec was the town of craftsmen and Kaptol the seat of the bishop; they merged in the 1770s and became the Upper Town. The Lower Town was laid out below them later, with squares in a row and the main railway station at its southern end.
Roughly 770,000 people live in Zagreb (2021 census). That is big enough for a proper museum scene, and the sights of the old centre are still close enough to cover on foot. Plan around the weather rather than around opening hours: the city is at its best outdoors from April to June and again in September and October.
How many days
- Two days: the Upper Town on one, the Lower Town and a long lunch on the other.
- Three days: add Mirogoj and one park, or swap the third day for an outing out of town.
- Four days: a full day at Plitvice or in Samobor fits without cutting anything above.
A plan for three days
Day 1: the Upper Town
Take the funicular up from Tomićeva and start at Lotrščak Tower just before noon, so the Grič cannon goes off while you are up there. The tower is closed on Mondays. Continue to St. Mark’s Square, then drop down to the Museum of Broken Relationships on Ćirilometodska street. Finish at the cathedral on Kaptol. Upper Town on foot takes two to three hours without the museums.
Day 2: the Lower Town
Begin on Ban Jelačić Square and go south through the horseshoe of squares and parks that ends at the Art Pavilion. The six squares and the Botanical Garden take two to three hours at a walking pace. Spend the afternoon in whichever museum of the district matches your taste; most of the city’s galleries and theatres stand here.
Day 3: Mirogoj or Maksimir
Go to Mirogoj early and use the afternoon for Maksimir Park, the city’s historic park with lakes and pavilions. The zoo sits inside it, so decide in advance whether you want only the park. A day trip to Samobor replaces either half.
Rain plan
Zagreb sees 6 to 11 rainy days a month, evenly spread, so a wet day will happen. The city copes well: the museums are close together and the trams run all night.
- Morning: climb Lotrščak Tower from Tuesday to Friday, when it opens at nine, and look at the exhibition inside.
- Afternoon: the Museum of Broken Relationships, a small collection of everyday objects left over from ended love stories.
- Evening: wait for the rain to stop, then walk to the cathedral; wet pavement makes the lit spires look twice as good.
- Any time: ride the funicular back down, a 64-second trip that is dry and costs less than a coffee.
Where to stay
- Around Ban Jelačić Square
- The middle of everything: trams cross the square, the tourist office is at number 11, and both halves of the old city are a short walk away.
- Upper Town
- Cobbled streets and the best evening light, at the price of a climb or a funicular ride. A good choice for a first night.
- By the main railway station
- Trams 2, 4, 6, 9 and 13 stop here, and King Tomislav Square with the Art Pavilion is across the road. Practical for arrivals by train.
- Kaptol, next to the cathedral
- The cathedral is on your doorstep, and bus 106 to Mirogoj leaves from this side of town.
- Near the Central Bus Station
- The airport shuttle ends here, and the coaches to Samobor leave from the station. Less charm, but easy for early departures.