Edinburgh Travel Guide: Old Town, Hills and Where to Stay
A capital built on a dead volcano, with a castle on one crag and a hike at the end of the main street.
The city in brief
Two towns face each other across Princes Street Gardens. South of them, the medieval Old Town climbs a ridge to the castle, all tall tenements and steep alleys. To the north, the New Town lays out Georgian crescents in tidy straight lines.
Almost everything worth seeing sits within walking distance, which is good news, since the streets here punish thin soles and heavy suitcases. Expect cobbles, stairs and a wind that changes its mind hourly. Comfortable shoes matter more than any ticket you will buy.
How long to stay
- 2 days: the castle, the Royal Mile, Holyrood and one climb with a view.
- 3 days: add the New Town, Dean Village and a long look at the museum.
- 4 days: the right length, because the fourth belongs to Stirling or the coast.
A three-day route
Castle and Old Town
Start at the first castle slot, then walk the Royal Mile downhill and duck into a few closes. Lunch near the Grassmarket leaves you at the foot of Victoria Street, the best place to end up with a camera.
Palace and volcano
Holyrood fills the morning. Arthur's Seat rises right behind it, so climb while your legs are willing, then cool down among the free collections on Chambers Street.
The elegant side
Wander the New Town towards Dean Village and follow the river to Stockbridge for coffee. Keep the last hour of light for Calton Hill, where the whole city turns gold if the clouds cooperate.
When it rains
It will, at some point. Rain here tends to arrive in bursts rather than settle in, so swap the order of your day instead of cancelling it.
- Morning: the National Museum opens at 10 am and costs nothing.
- Afternoon: Holyrood, whose state rooms keep you dry for two hours.
- Evening: a pub off the Grassmarket beats any plan you had for the hill.
- Any time: St Giles' Cathedral on the Royal Mile makes a calm shelter between showers.
Where to stay
- Old Town
- Atmosphere at the door and the shortest walks, but noise at night and suitcases on cobbles. Hopeless in August unless you enjoy elbows.
- New Town
- Handsome, central and flat by local standards. Close to Waverley and the airport tram, which makes it our first choice for a short stay.
- Stockbridge
- Village feel, independent shops and the river path. A small uphill walk from everything, repaid by quieter evenings.
- Leith
- The old port, now known for its food. The tram links it directly with the centre, and rooms tend to cost less than around the castle.
- Haymarket and the West End
- Practical base with a station and tram stops on the way in from the airport. Less romance, easy logistics for day trips by train.