Ten places that explain Marseille: a hilltop basilica, a museum on the water, a prison island and the white coves along the coast.
1Notre-Dame de la Garde
Photo: Nadine Ginzel / Pexels, Pexels License
The basilica sits on a limestone hill above the harbour and shows the whole city. Inside, the walls are covered with votive offerings left by sailors and families.
Time
1 to 1.5 hours
Setting
Both
Best time
Clear afternoon
Getting there
Bus 60 or on foot
Tip: Ride bus 60 up and walk down; the streets leading back are steep and the stairs reward you with changing views of the roofs. A tourist train also leaves from the Old Port.
The museum of European and Mediterranean civilisations has three sites, and the most striking is the lace-patterned cube at the harbour mouth. A footbridge links it to the old Fort Saint-Jean, whose ramparts and gardens look over the port and the open sea.
Time
2 to 3 hours
Setting
Both
Best time
Late afternoon
Getting there
Metro Joliette
Tip: The terrace, the ramparts and the gardens of the fort cost nothing, so you can see the best views without a ticket. Next door, the Cosquer Méditerranée replica of the prehistoric cave costs €19 and opens from 9.30 am to 6 pm.
Exhibitions €11, reduced €7.50. Closes at 6 pm or 7 pm depending on the season, opens at 10 am; closed on Tuesdays, 1 May and 25 December.
A 16th-century fortress on a rock off the coast, later a state prison. The Count of Monte Cristo made it famous, though Edmond Dantès never existed.
Time
3 to 4 hours with the ferry
Setting
Both
Best time
Calm morning
Getting there
Ferry from the Old Port
Tip: The crossing takes about 20 minutes, and the boats can stop when the mistral blows. Look at the sailing information before you set out, and allow a spare hour in case the return is delayed.
Castle entry €7, boat fare extra. Open from 10 am to 6 pm from April to September and to 5 pm from October to March; closed Mondays.
A 19th-century monument built to celebrate the arrival of the Durance water in Marseille. A great fountain stands between two colonnades, with the Fine Arts Museum and the Natural History Museum in the wings and a park behind.
Time
1 to 2 hours
Setting
Both
Best time
Morning or a rainy day
Getting there
Metro M1, Cinq Avenues
Tip: Park and museums keep different hours, so check the museum side separately. The metro from the Old Port takes about 10 min.
The park is free, open from 7 am to 7 pm, and to 9 pm from June to August. Museums open Tuesday to Sunday, 9 am to 6 pm.
A 17th-century almshouse in Le Panier, built around an arcaded courtyard with a baroque chapel in the middle. Today it works as a cultural centre and museum.
Time
1 to 1.5 hours
Setting
Both
Best time
Midday, out of the sun
Getting there
2 Rue de la Charité
Tip: You can walk into the courtyard and the chapel without paying for an exhibition. Pair it with the lanes of Le Panier, which can feel touristy near the main squares and calmer one street away.
The permanent collections are free, temporary exhibitions €6 to €12. Closed on Mondays, except Easter and Whit Monday.
Sainte-Marie-Majeure, known as La Major, was built in the second half of the 19th century in a Roman-Byzantine style, with domes and bands of white and green stone. Beside it stands the much smaller Romanesque Vieille Major, which is closed to visitors.
Time
30 to 45 min
Setting
Indoor
Best time
Late afternoon, when the sun is on the façade
Getting there
On foot from the Vieux-Port past Fort Saint-Jean, or down from Le Panier
Tip: Combine it with Mucem, a few minutes away. Visits inside are not possible during services.
Free entry. Open daily from 10 am, to 5.30 pm from January to March and to 7 pm from April to October.
The harbour is the centre of Marseille. Masts fill the basin, the basilica watches from the hill, and the quays are packed from breakfast to midnight.
Time
45 to 90 minutes
Setting
Outdoor
Best time
Early morning or after dark
Getting there
Metro Vieux-Port
Tip: The restaurants on the quay are aimed at passers-by, so eat a street or two back. Locals tend to prefer the stretch of coast around the Corniche, Vallon des Auffes and Malmousque for a stroll with the sea beside you.
The city gave Napoleon III this headland above the entrance to the Vieux-Port for a seaside residence. The architect Hector Lefuel built the palace, but the emperor never stayed in it. Today it is a conference centre, and its park is open to everyone, with views of the harbour mouth, Fort Saint-Nicolas and the basilica.
Time
30 min to 1 h
Setting
Outdoor
Best time
Late afternoon or at sunset
Getting there
On foot from the south quay of the Vieux-Port, a few minutes
Tip: Locals come here for picnics on the grass. Combine it with Saint-Victor Abbey and the walk up to the basilica.
A small fishing harbour below the Corniche road, spanned by a 19th-century stone bridge with three arches, with traditional pointu boats and restaurants known for bouillabaisse.
Time
45 min to 1 h 30 min
Setting
Outdoor
Best time
At sunset
Getting there
Bus 83 from the Vieux-Port, 15 min
Tip: At sunset, stand on the bridge or the rocks at the mouth of the cove. Book a table ahead in summer if you want to eat in one of its restaurants.
A national park of white limestone cliffs, pine and narrow coves of green water between Marseille and Cassis. Some coves are a short walk from a bus stop, others take hours.
Time
Half a day to a full day
Setting
Outdoor
Best time
Spring or early autumn
Getting there
Bus to a trailhead, then walk
Tip: Access can be restricted in the dry season because of wildfire risk, so check the current notice before you leave. Take water and sturdy shoes; the coves can only be reached on foot.
