Seville is a good base for Andalusia. Córdoba and its Mezquita are close enough by fast train for a relaxed day out, while the Roman city of Itálica, the hilltop town of Carmona and the sherry cellars of Jerez are a short bus or train ride away.
Córdoba and the Mezquita
Photo: José Antonio Otegui Auzmendi / Pexels, Pexels License
40 to 48 minFrom Sevilla-Santa Justa to Córdoba by AVE, Avlo, Avant or Intercity; the slower regional trains take much longer. From the station the old town is within walking distance.
about 1 h 45 min
Córdoba was the capital of Moorish Spain, and its great mosque, the Mezquita, shows why: a forest of columns supporting double arches of red brick and white stone, with a cathedral built into its centre in the sixteenth century. Around it lie the whitewashed lanes of the Judería, the Roman bridge over the Guadalquivir and the gardens of the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos. Entry to the Mezquita costs €15; give the rest of the day to the old town. In May, Córdoba holds its festival of flower-filled courtyards. In summer it is at least as hot as Seville, so set off early and be back in the cool of the train by mid-afternoon.
Tip: Monday to Saturday, the Mezquita can be visited free of charge from 8.30 am to 9.30 am by individual visitors; to make it, take one of the first trains of the day.
Itálica in Santiponce, just north-west of Seville, was founded by Scipio as the first Roman town in Hispania and was the birthplace of the emperor Trajan. Its amphitheatre and the mosaic floors of its houses lie among cypresses and open fields, so it is best visited in the morning, when it is cooler. Buses M-170A and M-170B run from the Plaza de Armas bus station to the site. Entry is free for EU citizens and €1.50 for everyone else. The site opens at 9 am and is closed on Mondays; on Sundays, and on every opening day from 21 June to 20 September, it closes at 3 pm.
Carmona, on a ridge east of Seville, is reached by bus. Its old town is entered through the fortified Puerta de Sevilla, and from its walls there are long views over the plain; it is an easy half-day trip, best in spring or autumn.
Jerez de la Frontera is 51 min to 1 h 12 min by train. It is the home of sherry, with cellars you can visit, and of the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art, whose horse shows run on set days only, so check the programme before choosing your date.
