Day trips from Madrid: Toledo, Segovia, El Escorial

Within an hour or two of Madrid lie five places on UNESCO's World Heritage list, each one reached by train and seen in a day. Two are royal: the palace and gardens of Aranjuez and the monastery of El Escorial. The other three are historic towns of Castile, Toledo, Segovia and Ávila, each with a character of its own. In summer the plateau is just as hot as the capital, so start early; in winter the towns in the mountains are noticeably colder.

Aranjuez: the spring palace on the Tagus

The Royal Palace of Aranjuez — Photo: AMDUMA / Pixabay, Pixabay License

about 51 to 52 minCercanías C3 from Sol or Atocha to Aranjuez
about 48 min

Aranjuez was where the Spanish court came each spring, when the river valley turned green while the surrounding plain was still bare. The kings built a palace beside the Tagus and laid out gardens along the water: the formal Jardín de la Isla on an island in the river and the long, shaded Jardín del Príncipe, which hides the little Casa del Labrador. The town itself was planned around them, with broad straight streets and arcaded squares. The whole landscape of palace, gardens and town is on the World Heritage list. The palace tour takes you through the royal apartments, including a porcelain room covered from floor to ceiling. It costs €9 and is closed on Mondays.

Tip: Spring and early autumn suit Aranjuez best, when the gardens are green and the riverside shade is pleasant without the summer heat. The Zone T tourist pass covers the train both ways. Opening hours of the palace are on the Patrimonio Nacional page.

Weather: Aranjuez

Toledo

34 minAvant from Madrid Puerta de Atocha to Toledo
about 1 h 1 min

Toledo sits on a rocky hill almost encircled by a deep bend of the Tagus, a tight maze of lanes where churches, synagogues and a former mosque recall the centuries when Christians, Jews and Muslims lived side by side. The Gothic cathedral is one of the largest in Spain, and El Greco, who lived here, left The Burial of the Count of Orgaz in the church of Santo Tomé.

Tip: The station is below the old town, so take the bus or walk up and use the outdoor escalators that climb the last stretch. For the classic view of the city, cross the river and follow the road along the far bank.

Weather: Toledo

Segovia

25 to 28 minAvant, Alvia or AVE from Chamartín to Segovia-Guiomar, then a city bus
about 1 h 18 min

The Roman aqueduct strides straight through the lower town on two tiers of granite arches, built without mortar. At the far end of the old town, the turrets of the Alcázar rise from the edge of a cliff, and between the two rises the late Gothic cathedral. Roast suckling pig is the local speciality.

Tip: The high-speed station lies outside the town, so allow time for the bus to the aqueduct. Segovia stands at the foot of the Sierra de Guadarrama and is often colder and windier than Madrid; the weather on Peñalara shows what the mountains are doing.

Weather: Segovia

San Lorenzo de El Escorial

The monastery of El Escorial under a cloudy sky, with water in front — Photo: JOSE GALLARDO / Pexels, Pexels License

about 53 min to 1 h 10 minCercanías from Chamartín or Atocha to El Escorial
about 51 min

Philip II built this vast, severe monastery and palace in the 16th century at the foot of the mountains, as the burial place of the Spanish kings and a demonstration of his faith. The visit includes the basilica, the royal pantheon, where most Spanish monarchs since Charles V lie, the library with its painted vaults, and the modest rooms in which Philip lived and died.

Tip: The station is at the bottom of the town, and the walk up to the monastery is steep. On a fine day, combine the visit with a walk in the woods above the town; the weather on Abantos, the mountain directly behind it, tells you whether that is a good idea. Visiting details are on the Patrimonio Nacional page.

Weather: San Lorenzo de El Escorial

Ávila

about 1 h 26 min to 1 h 45 minRegional train from Príncipe Pío via El Escorial to Ávila
about 1 h 26 min

The old town of Ávila is still ringed by its medieval walls, with dozens of towers and nine gates, and you can walk along a long section of the top. It is also the city of Saint Teresa of Ávila, whose birthplace is now a convent. At more than 1,100 metres it is the highest provincial capital in Spain.

Tip: For the best view of the walls, cross the river Adaja to the Cuatro Postes viewpoint west of the town. Bring a warm layer even in spring: Ávila is markedly colder than Madrid.

Weather: Ávila

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